There can be hundreds of combinations in a fabric cut plan therefore it is important to know characteristics of a good fabric cut plan which will save fabric in order to select the best plan. Quite simply a good fabric cut plan will require less time/effort and will use lesser fabric per garment.
Characteristics of a good Fabric cut plan:
1. Maximum number of garments on a marker –
Number of garments on marker (G’s ) should be maximum depending on the length of the cutting table available and other fabric /order parameters.
This is because more is the length of the lay more will be the marker efficiency and less will be fabric wastage.
Number of garments on marker should be an even number as patterns curves when paired together will waste less fabric. Therefore a 2G (G for garment) marker is more efficient than a 3G marker even though number of garments is more in 3G marker.
2. Size grouping :
Extreme big sizes should be grouped with extreme small sizes. This type of combinations gives better marker efficiency. For eg – a 2 G marker with sizes Xl & Xs will be more efficient than marker with sizes M & XS
3. Less number of plies and cut:
Less number of plies reduce spreading time and less number of cut parts reduce other cutting processes’ time.
If points 1 and 2 are carefully followed there is no need to worry about number of plies and cuts in the starting lays. However in the end lays where we only make 1G or 2G (G for garment) marker , there might arise a situation where there is a need to choose between less plies or less cut. It is recommended to go for less cut’s as time saving will be more beneficial in the end lays.
4. Lesser number of garments should be cut on smaller length markers.
A marker with 50 plies on 1 G marker is better than a marker with 100 plies on 1 G marker.
All these characteristics combined together will give a good fabric cut plan and will result in monumental fabric saving.
Now that we know characteristic of a good cut plan let us look at some cases –
Which fabric cut plan would you choose out of the following ?
Changing 4G markers to 8G markers we reduced 281 plies, 1 lay and marker efficiency will also increase
If the max number of G’s on a marker and total number of plies remains the same choosing the best Fabric cut plan becomes a little tricky. Pattern maker with his experience judge which combination is likely to fetch better efficiency as well as better end bit utilisation.
Its a close call but option 1 has arguably a slight edge because of the balance of the marker – the way big sizes have been paired with corresponding small sizes.